In the last article, we talked about the history of an iconic men's jacket model, the reefer jacket, from which Eduardo De Simone took inspiration to create a new interpretation of this very popular garment for this fall winter 21/22. We continue our journey inside the male wardrobe, touching a fundamental item in the creation of an outfit these days: the overcoat.
- The Most Iconic Styles of Overcoats
- Fabrics and Colours
- Eduardo De Simone's overcoats
The Most Iconic Styles of Overcoats
The coat is not only outerwear to be used to protect yourself from the cold, but it also has a distinctive function depending on the model you are going to wear.
Even if sometimes we go for an aperitif immediately after work wearing the same office outfit, the key lies in the quality and choice of a good overcoat and above all in choosing the model that best describes our style. Let's see the most iconic models of overcoats together:
- The Polo Coat was born in England, it refers to the loose-fitting, casual overcoat that was originally worn by polo players, so it became known as the Polo Coat. It is made out of tan-colored camel hair cloth, normally a 50/50 blend with wool, it has a half-belt or a full belt, features six or eight buttons. It features patch pockets, Ulster collar or peak lapels and optional sleeve cuffs;
- The Ulster Coat is an overcoat with a strong personality. It represents one of the highest expression of a tailor’s ability. It was named after the homonymous Irish Northern province, whose people popularized a particular tweed overcoat. A classic Ulster Coat is similar to a Polo Coat but made of tweed, so it has a rustic nature. It has specific elements like large lapels, either horizontal or slanted gorge, eight horn buttons, patch pockets with flaps, sleeve cuffs, half-belt, back box pleat with slit, two deep pleats and over-the-knee length;
- The Pea Coat (or Caban) has been a standard garment for sailors on both sides of the Atlantic since the 18th century. The traditional configuration is double-breasted with six large buttons, wide lapels to close and fasten with a chin strap, vertical handwarmer pockets and mid-thigh or waist length depending on the military grade (the higher the grade, the longer the Coat);
- The Chesterfield Coat (Single-breasted) is the garment that made history in London, already in the mid-nineteenth century, and has remained almost similar in design. Formal, Thin, slender, with medium-sized revers, velvet collar, two horizontal pockets with flaps, sometimes with a ticket pocket too, a breast pocket on the left, optional and length above the knee;
Fabrics and Colours
If you plan to wear your overcoat for years to come, make sure you buy a coat that is made of 100% wool, in general, heavier coats last longer because the fabric is more durable. A wool/cashmere blend is a perfect compromise between durability and warmth. Pure cashmere ones, being more delicate, are likely to wear out sooner.
For overcoats, the most worn colors are the darker ones. Starting from the formal black to the classical business grey, up to the more versatile navy blue. All these three colors can be easily matched. But we must not forget the camel color synonymous with sophistication and ideal for daytime meetings.
Eduardo De Simone's Overcoats
Eduardo De Simone has always looked back to the tradition of Neapolitan tailoring, with considerable attention to the contemporary lines. Some of Eduardo’s overcoats models are real jewels made in Naples that fully express the concept of handmade clothing.
For example the double-breasted version with patch pockets of our De-Havilland camel, but also the belted single-breasted version with Raglan sleeve of our Spitfire LFSD overcoat, Spitfire Rust Raglan Coat, Spitfire Check HS Overcoat, Spitfire Grey Overcheck Raglan Overcoat.
Informal but elegant coat styles, with colors that can satisfy any chromatic doubt about winter looks. Combine them with white or dark gray trousers, moss green or cobalt blue high-neck wool sweaters and suede ankle boots.