Hi everybody, we're back with great news from Eduardo De Simone's world. Last time we talked about men's overcoats, we analyzed two classic models of tradition: the polo coat and the ulster coat. Through the fabric, the color, and the style we have seen the differences and the points of contact between the two models. For the winter season 2022, the navy style is back, which represents the metamorphosis of sailor clothing into ready-to-wear garments. There are two fundamental pillars of the navy style: soft trousers and the inevitable pea coat.
And it is precisely starting from the latter that our Eduardo De Simone took inspiration for a reinterpretation of the reefer jacket, creating two new models. But before taking a closer look at them, let's pick up the thread of history and see where the reefer coat comes from...
Reefer jacket's history
The pea coat has been a standard issue for sailors on both sides of the Atlantic since the 18th century. Traditionally the length of a coat conferred the rank of its owner: the longer the coat, the higher its military rank was. Those longer coats called "bridge coats" gradually became out of favor, and shorter, lower-tier "reefer" coats became a more popular cut. Called "reefer" because the sailors who wore them had the task of "reefing the sails", they were generally equipped with sturdy buttons in brass or black horn.
The refer jacket inside was lined with wool, which made it very warm for sailors. In addition, its short cut allowed (the length does not exceed the upper part of the thighs) allowed greater ease of movement. The reefer's double-breasted design meant that the buttons were placed on the sides, ensuring the cords didn't get tangled in the buttons.
As with the duffle coat, after the end of the Second World War, the surplus reefer coats were sold to the general public. Thus the navy style became popular, the reefer jacket was adopted as a symbol of cool, especially of Hollywood stars, style icons!
Reefer jacket by Eduardo De Simone
Eduardo De Simone started from the classic reefer jacket model and created two new models made in Napoli: Blue Alpaca B29 Reefer Jacket and Overcheck B29 Reefer Jacket. What are the main features?
As always, there is great attention to the high-quality fabrics used, typical of handmade clothing. In particular, the two models are distinguished by the raw materials used:
Chromatically speaking, the two models fit fully into an autumnal color scheme that you can only fall madly in love with. The Blue model features a shade of blue with a warm undertone, while the Overcheck model recalls the traditional checked fabric where brick red, brown, and a hint of moss green are intertwined.
How to combine them? Choose cream-colored corduroy trousers, a heavy wool cap and ankle boots on the feet; or wear them over a white shirt with a tie and gray trousers. Alternatively, know that you will also be perfect with a simple light turtleneck sweater, a pair of jeans and combat boots.
They are three kinds of pleat:forward (pointing towards the fly, typical of English tailoring),reverse(folded towards the pockets, favored by the Italians) and “a forchetta” which has one side forward and the other reverse. Forward pleats are neater, reverse pleats create a looser shape.