The spezzato expresses an unmistakably Italian style. The ability and above all the ease in wearing jacket and trousers of different fabrics and colours is an art. The visual effect can be twofold: pleasant or an eyesore. This is why we are here to give you some tips on how to compose a perfect spezzato.
If you are not used to wearing separates, you have to start from the basics, to avoid risking wrong combinations. Classicism and tradition must be mixed with that pinch of flair and creativity, which highlights the silhouette and makes it elegant and not cheap.
Jacket, trousers and shirt. How to choose?
Let’s get it straight, a spezzato is less formal than a suit. One thing you should know is: connoisseurs don’t use suit’s jackets for separates (with very few exceptions). Either a blazer or a sports jacket will do for us.
As for the trousers, if you decide to opt for a more classic look, the best solution is to choose a pair of wool tailored trousers that fit you perfectly. If, on the other hand, you prefer a sporty or casual style, you can opt for cotton drill outfit or even denim. Be careful though, stay away from ripped jeans.
Finally the shirt. Although it may seem the least of our problems, the shirt is also important for the composition of a spezzato. In addition to the choice of colour and pattern, which we will see in detail shortly, the quality of the garment is fundamental. As well as the shirts by Eduardo de Simone, which fully express the quality of handmade clothingmade in Napoli(shop here).
Fabrics and colours: the eternal dilemma
When combining two garments from two different universes, before matching the colours you have to choose two fabrics that work together. As we have always said, seasonality is the basic discriminant from which to start: therefore you cannot combine a pair of light cotton trousers with woollen jackets. It just doesn’t work. Fabrics that are too light never go with fabrics that are too heavy, you have to play on the same weight as the garments.
Now let's finally talk about colour combinations. There is a proverb of the Neapolitan tradition that grandparents used to tell their grandchildren to always have a blue suit and a grey suit in their closet. This way you already have a third suit: blue jacket and grey trousers. This is one of the quintessential combination of the spezzato, but you can also opt for:
navy blue jacket, white shirt, and beige trousers;
cream jacket, denim shirt, burgundy trousers;
dark green jacket, light blue shirt and beige trousers;
Finally, the golden rule: when it comes to spezzato avoid the combo of lighter and stronger shades of the same colour. You should rather play on chromatic contrast and harmony.
They are three kinds of pleat:forward (pointing towards the fly, typical of English tailoring),reverse(folded towards the pockets, favored by the Italians) and “a forchetta” which has one side forward and the other reverse. Forward pleats are neater, reverse pleats create a looser shape.