In the last article we’ve talked about the new Sunrise Capsule Collection, which consists of single-breasted and double-breasted jackets in different colors. The same attention that you have in buying a jacket must also be paid to the choice of artisanal trousers. Even the trousers have precise tailoring characteristics, which must be respected also because they make the difference.
How to evaluate the fit of the trousers?
Trousers are essential to ensure the success of a good outfit, a little carelessness can ruin everything. Trousers contain various features from top to bottom, waistband to hem, that are important to consider for fit and appearance whether you are buying them as part of a suit or on their own as a pair of casual chinos. But let's start right from the basics:
the trousers must be balanced, namely the central crease must be perfectly perpendicular and doesn’t have to “break”;
the length of the trousers varies according to the fashion trends, but we recommend the classic one, namely the trousers must kiss the shoes without making too many folds;
the seat of the trousers must not be very tight, but comfortable, being subject to continuous tensions.
Must have formal fabrics: Corduroy and Cavalry Twill
Wearing a certain type of trousers always depends on the occasion, for this we must pay attention to the fabric of the garment. One of the most famous and optimal fabrics for tailored trousers is Cavalry Twill. A smooth surfaced fabric with a clean steep prominent double twill effect. Traditionally a fine wool worsted fabric, it was used for hardwearing clothes such as riding breeches – hence the association with British Cavalry officers.
Another ideal fabric is Corduroy, used for the two models of the "Panther" collection byus, in the honey and blue variant. Handmade clothingwith a slim fit, belt loops, one pleat and a 3-point buttoning closure. Obviously Made in Napoli.
As for lightweight fabrics (waiting for spring) drill, twill or light wool will do just fine.
Which colours should you buy for formal trouser?
Grey, navy blue and white. These are the colors that should never be missing in the wardrobe of a true gentleman.
For example grey Fresco trousers reflect the timeless sophistication of men's fashion, to be worn daily in different contexts, starting from the office paired with a turtleneck ending with the formal evening included in a separate.
Pay attention to navy blue formal trousers: should never be matched with navy sports jacket, since two shades of the same colour might look unappropriate. If you like navy, opt for a suit, or a navy jacket and grey trousers.
At last, white formal trousers can transport us to a dimension far from the winter and humid grey of the city and will throw us into a Sunday brunch at the yacht club or an enchanting boat trip.
They are three kinds of pleat:forward (pointing towards the fly, typical of English tailoring),reverse(folded towards the pockets, favored by the Italians) and “a forchetta” which has one side forward and the other reverse. Forward pleats are neater, reverse pleats create a looser shape.